Surf Life with Tom Morey

Summer 1951, Tom Morey is 16, and walking south from Main beach until he comes to the south end of Oak Street Beach. Lying directly across his path was a redwood/balsa board . “I would have had to step over it to continue so instead I stopped, looked to my right and saw easy low tide waves rollin’ in. Looking a few yards to my left I see the smiling face of a guy who’s obviously the owner. So, ‘Could I borrow your board?’, I shout.. ‘Sure’, he nods. Thus, I paddle out, swing the beast around and catch my first wave on a surfboard. I stood right up, rode straight in to the sand, ground to a halt, stepped off and from that moment on was absolutely hooked”.